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A rustic French-inspired family dinner
I accidentally developed an excellent family recipe. The sweet leeks, savory anchovies, fresh herbs, rich cream, tender chicken, salty potatoes, and warm bread all support each other beautifully without any one element dominating the dish. It's the kind of meal people remember and request again.
Serves: 4–6
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 40–45 minutes
Ingredients
Chicken
- 1½–2 pounds (700–900 g) boneless, skinless chicken thighs
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- Freshly ground black pepper
Leeks
- 4–5 large leeks
- Water for washing
Sauce (double batch)
- 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 6 anchovy fillets packed in oil, finely chopped
- 1½ cups dry white wine
- 1½ cups heavy cream
- 2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary
- 6–8 sprigs fresh thyme
- 2 sprigs of sage
- OR
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon, divided
- 2 bay leaves
- 2-3 sprigs of fresh thyme
- 1 tablespoon capers
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard (optional but recommended)
- Freshly ground black pepper
- Salt, only if needed
To serve
- 1–1½ pounds baby potatoes
- Coarse salt for the potato cooking water
- 1 baguette, sliced
- Good quality butter at room temperature
Preparation
1. Prepare the leeks
Trim away the roots and dark green tops, keeping the white and pale green parts.
Cut the leeks into 1-inch lengths.
If the leeks are thick:
- halve them lengthwise after cutting, or
- quarter the largest pieces.
Separate the layers slightly and wash thoroughly to remove grit.
Drain well.
This size turned out to be ideal: guests don't need a knife, but the pieces still retain their character.
2. Brown the chicken
Season the thighs with salt and pepper.
Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or braiser over medium-high heat.
Brown the thighs for 2–3 minutes per side.
They should develop a little color but remain undercooked.
Transfer to a plate.
3. Build the sauce
Lower the heat to medium.
Add the butter.
Stir in the anchovies and cook until they dissolve into the butter, about 1–2 minutes.
Add the white wine.
Simmer for 5 minutes.
Stir in:
- heavy cream,
- bay leaves,
- thyme,
- Dijon mustard (if using),
- half of the tarragon.
Season generously with black pepper.
Taste before adding salt.
4. Cook the leeks first
Add the prepared leeks to the sauce.
Bring to a gentle simmer.
Cover tightly.
Cook for 10–15 minutes, stirring once or twice.
The leeks should be beginning to soften but still retain some structure.
5. Finish with the chicken
Nestle the browned chicken thighs among the leeks.
Partially cover the braiser.
Maintain a gentle simmer.
Cook for 15–20 minutes, until:
- the chicken reaches 170°F (77°C), and
- the leeks are completely tender.
If the sauce becomes too thick before the leeks finish cooking, add ¼ cup water or chicken stock.
6. Final adjustments
Transfer the chicken temporarily to a platter.
Remove the bay leaves and thyme stems.
If desired, simmer the sauce uncovered for 2–5 minutes until it reaches your preferred consistency.
Stir in the remaining tarragon.
Taste and adjust seasoning.
Return the chicken to the sauce to warm through.
Baby Potatoes
While the leeks are cooking:
Place the baby potatoes in a saucepan.
Cover with cold water by about 1 inch.
Salt the water generously.
Bring to a boil.
Reduce to a simmer.
Cook 15–20 minutes, until a knife slides in easily.
Drain.
Serve whole, allowing everyone to spoon the sauce over them.
Baguette
Wrap the sliced baguette loosely in foil.
Warm at 375°F (190°C) for 8–10 minutes.
For a slightly crisp crust, open the foil during the final 2 minutes.
To serve
Arrange the chicken on a large platter.
Spoon the creamy leeks and plenty of sauce around and over the chicken.
Scatter with a little extra sage or tarragon.
Serve alongside:
- boiled baby potatoes, and
- warm baguette for mopping up the sauce.
Notes for next time
- Boneless thighs: adding them after the leeks have started cooking solves the timing problem.
- Leek size: 1-inch lengths that are halved or quartered cook evenly and are easy to eat.
- Extra sauce: the doubled quantity provides enough for the potatoes and bread, which turned out to be one of the best parts of the meal.
- Stovetop vs. oven: for this version, the braiser on the stovetop is easier and gives you more control over both the leeks and the sauce.
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